Whichever method you choose, the site must be well drained, level,
and cleared of weeds. This means preparing the soil thoroughly, at
least five weeks and ideally several months in advance, to give it time
Creating the Right Environment
- Kill or clear all perennial weeds, plus the old grass if you are
replacing a badly neglected lawn. The easiest way is to use a glyphosate
weedkiller, although more than one application may be needed.
- Cultivate the soil, first skimming off any existing sod. If you prefer
not to use a weedkiller, you can dig out weeds by hand during
- A good lawn requires 8–12 in (20–30 cm) of well-drained topsoil; the
subsoil should also drain well. With these conditions the grass will
root deeply, reducing the need for watering. Where the depth of topsoil
is irregular, the lawn will dry out more quickly in shallow areas and
develop brown patches. If your topsoil is shallow, it is worth buying
enough to achieve an even depth.
Seed or Sod?
- Seed costs less than sod, and the wide choice of grasses means you can
satisfy your requirements more exactly, but it will be up to a year
before the lawn can take heavy use.
- Sod gives you an instant lawn, usable in about eight weeks, when the
sod has taken root. However, good-quality sod, like good-quality carpet,
is not cheap.
Buy sod from a reputable specialist. Sod from good suppliers is specially grown in fields and lifted to order. If you can inspect the sod to check the quality, so much the better. Usually there is a choice between high-quality ornamental sod, containing only fine grasses, and utility grade, which has a proportion of hardwearing rye grasses. Some suppliers will grow special sod to order, but this is more expensive and takes about 18 months.